Siem Reap, Cambodia: 4 Temples, a Circus, and Lost Luggage

Siem Reap is the gateway to Angkor, the temple complex that was once the center of the Khmer Empire. The temples are the reason most people come. Angkor Wat gets the fame, but it has serious competition. Bayon, Ta Prohm, and Banteay Srei each hold their own.

View across the moat to Angkor Wat’s long galleries and three visible towers, with palm trees and a floating bridge at right. — Angkor Wat across the moat, with the floating bridge at right.

I went in expecting temples. I had not planned on developing opinions about tree roots. A circus with no animals was another surprise. So was the shopping center. More on that later. Climb into the tuk-tuk. We have a lot of ground to cover.

Sampling the Highlights of Siem Reap

I spent two full days in Siem Reap in February 2020, before a Mekong River cruise with Avalon Waterways. Yes, that was right before the world shut down for Covid. Good timing, as it turns out. My small group of 25 people had guided tours of four temples. In the evenings, I also saw an Apsara dance performance and the Phare Circus.

Smiling woman in a teal shirt taking a selfie in a tuk-tuk, with other Avalon Waterways tuk-tuks and passengers behind her. — Boarding the Avalon tuk-tuk convoy for a day of temples.

Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat is the most famous temple in Cambodia. It is also the largest religious structure in the world, covering about 402 acres (162.6 hectares). King Suryavarman II built it in the 12th century as a Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu. Over the centuries it became a Buddhist temple. Five towers rise from the center, and a drawing of them sits on the Cambodian flag.

Long walls inside the temple are covered in carvings. They tell Hindu stories, including the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. One gallery shows the Churning of the Sea of Milk. Gods and demons pull on a giant serpent to produce the elixir of immortality. Another gallery shows a historic procession of King Suryavarman II.

Stone bas-relief with a multi-armed Vishnu at center and a line of figures pulling a serpent, with rows of small celestial figures above. — Bas-relief carving along one of Angkor Wat’s galleries.

Look closely at the walls and you will find apsaras, the celestial dancers. Researchers have documented about 1,800 of them. Guides will tell you that no two are exactly alike.

Five carved apsaras with tall crowns standing side by side on a weathered stone wall between two windows with carved balusters. — Apsaras in a row. Guides say no two are alike.

Visitors can climb the steep stairs to tour the inside of some of the towers. I did not. Photos from the bottom will have to do.

Looking up a steep stone staircase to an Angkor Wat tower under a cloudy sky, with visitors in the upper windows. — The steep stairs to the upper level. I admired them from the bottom.

Shrines are tucked throughout the temple. In one gallery, two monks sat beside donation boxes in front of a gold-draped Buddha.

When we finished, we crossed the moat on a floating bridge on our way out, headed for Angkor Thom. The moat is about 620 feet (190 meters) wide. The stone causeway was closed for restoration at the time. A temporary bridge of linked plastic tiles sat directly on the water instead. It moves a little under your feet. Everyone discovers this at the same moment. The restored causeway reopened in late 2023. Reports at the time said the floating bridge would stay in use as the exit.

Two monks in orange robes seated beside donation boxes in front of a gold-draped Buddha shrine between stone pillars. — Monks at a shrine inside Angkor Wat, and the floating bridge across the moat.

Visitors walking across a floating bridge of linked beige tiles over the moat, with trees ahead. — Monks at a shrine inside Angkor Wat, and the floating bridge across the moat.

Bayon Temple at Angkor Thom

Next stop was Angkor Thom, the last great capital of the Khmer Empire. Bayon sits at its exact center. King Jayavarman VII built it in the late 12th or early 13th century. It is best known for its faces. About 200 faces are carved into the 37 surviving towers. Each tower looks out in the four cardinal directions.

Weathered stone towers of Bayon temple rising against a cloud — Bayon’s towers, with a face on every side.

Nobody knows for certain whose face it is. Scholars debate whether it shows Avalokiteshvara, the Buddhist bodhisattva of compassion, or Jayavarman VII himself. Either way, someone is watching you from every direction. Guides will tell you the mood of the faces changes with the light. Morning makes them look calm. Afternoon makes them look stern. Sunset makes them look amused.

The other draw is the bas-relief carvings. Angkor Wat focuses on gods and kings. Many panels at Bayon show ordinary life instead. Look for markets, open-air cooking, fishing boats, and a cockfight.

Stone bas-relief of a boat with a row of heads above large fish, with trees and a deer carved below. — Fish, boats, and a row of passengers carved into a Bayon wall.

Angkor Wat has a clean, symmetrical layout. Bayon does not. Over the centuries it was expanded, altered, and partly dismantled. It began as a Mahayana Buddhist temple. Then it was reworked for Hindu worship in the 13th century. Theravada Buddhism later brought more changes. Walking through it is a bit of a maze. Follow your guide.

Looking through stone doorframes at a column and a narrow corridor where a guide and two visitors stand. — Bayon from the inside: doorways, columns, and a face around every corner.

Bayon’s central towers with carved faces above lower rooms with dark doorways, under a cloudy sky. — Bayon from the inside: doorways, columns, and a face around every corner.

Ta Prohm

Ta Prohm was founded by King Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century, in the Bayon style. Its original name was Rajavihara, which means Royal Monastery. Large trees have grown in, through, and over the structures. The temple was a filming location for Lara Croft: Tomb Raider (2001). Many people know it as the Tomb Raider temple. Angkor Wat is the most famous temple in Siem Reap. Ta Prohm was unquestionably my favorite of the four.

The trees are silk-cotton and strangler figs, according to most guides. The roots look destructive. Guides will tell you they are actually holding some of the ruins together. Steel poles quietly help out in other spots.

Huge tree roots pouring down the corner of a ruined Ta Prohm building, with steel props in the window openings. — Roots on the walls, light through the ceiling, and fallen stone in the corridors.

Looking up inside a stone chamber at layered blocks and a gap of bright sky where part of the roof is missing. — Roots on the walls, light through the ceiling, and fallen stone in the corridors.

In its heyday, Ta Prohm was a major monastery, dedicated to the king’s mother. A stele records more than 12,500 people on site, including 18 high priests and 615 dancers.

Weathered stone tower at Ta Prohm with a carved niche, trees alongside, and a blue sky behind. — A ruined sanctuary tower with the trees moving in.

As at other Angkor temples, the walls carry apsaras and floral carvings. Unlike most of them, Ta Prohm was left in a semi-ruined state on purpose. French conservators chose to keep it much as they found it. It looks neglected. That is the plan.

Stone carving of seated figures beneath a decorated arch, covered in green lichen. — Carvings and a very large tree, both still here.

Tall tree with a web of roots wrapped around a stone tower, with fallen stones and doorways below. — Carvings and a very large tree, both still here.

The vibe is wild, with a slightly eerie edge. It is often called the most haunting of the Angkor temples. Wooden walkways and rope railings keep visitors off the roots. That seems fair. The roots were here first. Conservators have long wrestled with a tough call. Remove the trees and risk collapse, or leave them and let nature continue?

Woman in a red shirt with arms outstretched on a wooden walkway in front of a doorway swallowed by enormous tree roots. — Ta Prohm: a wooden walkway for me, steel poles for the building.

Thick tree root arching over a carved doorway at Ta Prohm, with steel support poles beside it and a block of stone in front. — Ta Prohm: a wooden walkway for me, steel poles for the building.

Banteay Srei

Banteay Srei is the smallest of the four temples I visited. It sits about 16 miles (25 kilometers) northeast of the main Angkor group. It was consecrated in the 10th century and dedicated mainly to Shiva.

Low red sandstone temple buildings and towers behind a laterite wall, with visitors near an entrance and tall trees behind. — Banteay Srei, small and red.

Red sandstone makes up most of the temple, a color change from the gray stone at the other three. It is also easy to carve, and the carvers took full advantage. The reliefs show scenes from Hindu epics. Many guides say the storytelling is so clear that you can read the walls like a comic strip.

Narrow courtyard between carved red sandstone shrines with decorated pediments and small guardian figures at the base of the steps. — Red sandstone, in a place where the other temples are gray.

The name roughly translates to Citadel of Women, or Citadel of Beauty. One popular story says the carving was so delicate that women must have done it. Treat that one as tour lore. The buildings are miniature by Angkor standards. The sanctuary doorway is only about 3.5 feet (1.08 meters) high.

Front of a red sandstone shrine with a carved pediment above a small wooden door and carved pilasters on both sides. — Small doors, big carving.

Two red sandstone towers with carved niches and kneeling stone guardian figures in front, beside a tiled-roof building. — Small doors, big carving.

Unlike most Angkor temples, no king commissioned this one. Two courtiers, Yajnavaraha and Vishnukumara, built it. The carvings still look freshly cut, and the temple is more than 1,000 years old.

Two stepped red sandstone towers covered in carvings, with kneeling guardian figures on the platform in front and tall trees behind. — Banteay Srei’s towers, carved from top to bottom.

Apsara Dance Performance

I also saw an Apsara dance performance while I was in Siem Reap. Apsara is part of the classical Khmer dance tradition, also known as the Royal Ballet of Cambodia. It uses slow, deliberate gestures, elaborate costumes, and live music to tell religious stories and classical myths.

Dancers in green and gold costumes spread peacock-feather wings across a stage beneath a Royal Khmer Theatre sign, with a woman holding a purple parasol behind them. — The Peacock Dance.

We ate a three-course dinner while watching four traditional dances: Peacock, Mekhala, Fishing, and Apsara.

Tray with a mound of rice, a grilled skewer, a portion in golden curry sauce, and small bowls of vegetables and soup. — Dinner arrived on a tray.

The costumes and crowns come straight from the carvings at Angkor. Apsaras are celestial dancers who entertain gods and kings. The movements are slow, controlled, and symbolic. Hand positions, finger bends, and eye and head movements all carry meaning.

Barefoot man in a white hat, white shirt, and plaid sarong with a purple sash, one hand raised, before golden apsara panels. — The Fishing, Mekhala, and Apsara dances: costumes, crowns, and a lot of control.

Dancer in a tall gold crown and blue and gold costume with raised hands before three golden apsara figures. — The Fishing, Mekhala, and Apsara dances: costumes, crowns, and a lot of control.

Dancers train for years, often starting in childhood. The dance was traditionally performed at royal ceremonies such as coronations, weddings, and funerals, not for tourists. The tradition nearly disappeared under the Khmer Rouge, who killed most of Cambodia’s classical artists. Survivors regrouped after 1979 and rebuilt the repertoire. UNESCO first recognized the Royal Ballet of Cambodia in 2003. It was listed as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2008.

Phare Circus

The other evening show was Phare, the Cambodian Circus. It comes with a mission. The circus supports Phare Ponleu Selpak, a school in Battambang. The name means roughly “the brightness of the arts.” Nine young men returning from a refugee camp after the Khmer Rouge years founded it in 1994. An art teacher had used drawing classes as therapy, and they wanted to pass that on. The art school grew into a free public school. Music and theater schools followed, and finally a circus school. The Siem Reap show opened in 2013 as a social enterprise. It employs graduates and helps fund the school.

Performers kneeling and stretching on a red mat in a circular arena, with tiered audience seating around them and a blue projection screen behind. — Phare, the Cambodian Circus, in the round.

There are no animals. Acrobatics, juggling, dance, live music, and acting carry the story. The audience sits on tiered seating around a red mat. It is intimate and fast-paced. One performer balanced on a stack of pipes. Another hung from a rope above the stage.

Barefoot performer with arms out balancing on a board atop stacked metal cylinders, while others watch from the red mat. — A balancing act on a stack of pipes, and a performer in the air.

Performer in white and yellow hanging from a rope high above the stage, with others on the floor below and the audience watching. — A balancing act on a stack of pipes, and a performer in the air.

The stories combine Cambodian history, folklore, modern life, and social issues. The tone ranges from funny to political to deeply personal. Students at the Battambang school typically come from poor backgrounds. According to the school, its students and graduates have toured, taught, or performed in 24 countries.

Two performers in blue balancing in an acrobatic pose on a red mat while four performers stand behind them and the audience looks on. — A duet, with the rest of the cast watching.

The Bags Took a Different Route

One part of this trip did not make the highlight reel. My luggage did not arrive in Siem Reap with me. I had a short layover in San Francisco, and the bags did not make it onto the plane. I spent most of my free time in Siem Reap on the phone with the airline. The rest went to a local shopping center called Lucky Mall, where I bought a few replacement items, including a pair of elephant pants. The cruise director showed me where to find it. It was within walking distance of the hotel. I would never have gone there if I had not needed to.

Glass-fronted shopping mall with a red and white Lucky Mall sign above the entrance, Khmer lettering and three flags on the roof, and a restaurant banner on the left, under a clear blue sky. — Lucky Mall, and a wardrobe assembled on short notice.

Woman with short gray hair and glasses taking a mirror selfie in a hotel room, wearing a navy T-shirt, blue and white paisley pants, and white hotel slippers. — Lucky Mall, and a wardrobe assembled on short notice.

The bags took five days to reach me. Once I was on the ship, I was a moving target. That made the whole thing an ordeal. My suitcase, it turns out, had taken a side trip to Seoul. Siem Reap has a fully functional shopping center. I can confirm this from personal experience. Pack a spare shirt and the essentials in your carry-on. Short layovers eat bags. For the full story, see Detours Welcome: Turning Travel Mishaps into Life Lessons.

Smiling woman in a red top leaning her head against a glossy red hard-shell suitcase with luggage tags and a blue name tag on top. — Reunited with my suitcase, five days late.

Worth the Time If You Have It

I followed the set tour, so these three stayed on my list for next time.

Tonle Sap Floating Villages. Tonle Sap is the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia. Its water level swings by about 26 feet (8 meters) between seasons. Boat tours visit floating villages such as Chong Khneas and Kampong Phluk. The rainy season is considered the best time to go, when the water is high.
Angkor National Museum. Many visitors recommend going before the temples, since it gives context on Khmer history and art. A gallery of about 1,000 Buddha images is included.
Cambodia Landmine Museum. Aki Ra, a former child soldier who later cleared landmines for the United Nations, founded this museum. It sits near Banteay Srei, so the two combine easily.

Closing Thoughts

Siem Reap packs a lot into two days. Angkor Wat earns its fame. Bayon watches you from every angle. Ta Prohm let the trees win, and it was my favorite of the four. Banteay Srei is small and red and carved from top to bottom. The dance dinner and the circus rounded out the evenings.

My luggage took five days to catch up. The temples had been waiting for centuries and did not seem bothered.

Common Questions

Planning Your Time in Siem Reap

How many days should I spend in Siem Reap?

I spent two full days. I visited four temples and enjoyed two cultural experiences in the evenings. That was a good amount of time for what I wanted to do. Some travelers prefer a slower pace or more temples. A three-day Angkor pass covers any three days within a seven-day window, which makes that easy.

When is the best time to visit Siem Reap?

It depends on what you want. The dry season runs from November to April. November through February is cooler, with highs of about 70 to 90°F (21 to 32°C). These months are also peak season, so expect crowds and higher prices. From February to May, highs can pass 104°F (40°C). The rainy season runs from May to October. Highs average around 86°F (30°C). Rain usually falls heavily once a day, often near sunset. September is the wettest month. Crowds are far smaller, hotel rates drop, and the moats fill and the temples turn mossy and green. April and May are hot but quiet. October is still wet but lush.

Getting Around and Getting In

Is it easy to get around Siem Reap?

Yes. Tuk-tuks are the main way to get around. A tuk-tuk in Cambodia is a motorbike pulling a covered passenger carriage. They are easy to find and inexpensive. You can hire one for a short ride or for a full day of temples. Agree on the price and route before you go. Travel guides put a full-day rate at roughly $20 to $25 US.

Do I need a ticket for the temples?

Yes. Angkor Archaeological Park requires a pass. As of August 2026, a one-day pass costs $37, a three-day pass costs $62, and a seven-day pass costs $72. Staff scan the pass at each temple, so keep it handy. Buy it from the official site, the Angkor Pass app, a kiosk, or the ticket office. Tickets from other sellers may not be valid. Check current prices before you go.

What should I wear to the temples?

Cover your shoulders and wear long pants, or a long skirt or dress. Ticket checkers can turn visitors away at some temples. A T-shirt works. A shawl does not.

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